Journal #33

Deep blue wonders: the world’s most thrilling dive destinations

From the dramatic drop-offs of Little Cayman to the shark-filled shallows of the Bahamas and the volcanic arches of the Azores, scuba diving doesn’t get any better in these four once-in-a-lifetime dive spots, says diving aficionado Ianthe Butt

Words by: Ianthe Butt

It’s said that the sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever. This we know to be true.

It is a little known fact that before becoming J Craft’s master builder, Johan Hallén had a previous life as a Swedish Navy mine diver. While these days his focus is squarely on the creation of beautiful vessels that sit above water, his – and our – love for the sea also extends to its depths.

From remote Caribbean islands where the waters teem with tropical fish to rugged volcanic seascapes where shipwrecks are ready to be explored, these four breathtaking dive spots promise pristine reefs, rich marine life and once-in-a-lifetime underwater encounters. And when you surface, your J Craft Torpedo could be waiting – perhaps kitted out with custom-built dive tank holders and fitted with all manner of specialist equipment – ready to take you to your next diving adventure.

THE CAYMAN ISLANDS

Ringed by protected coral reefs, this trio of Caribbean isles – all swaying palms and buttercup-golden beaches – hold serious scuba appeal. Here, translucent turquoise waters afford consistently good visibility and scenery below the warm waves (around 25 degrees) is as attractive as the beachscapes above. Cut a watery dash to Little Cayman – and its major drawcard, Bloody Bay Wall.

Described by Jacques Cousteau as one of nature’s greatest marvels, its vertical drop-off plunges into the depths for over 2km. Colours are kaleidoscopic, textures mesmerising and marine life abundant. Crimson gorgonian sea fans rub up against sunset-hued elephant ear sponges where shrimps, nudibranchs and seahorses rest in crevices, and eagle rays, hawksbill turtles and inquisitive Nassau groupers glide through gin-clear water.

For divers keen to explore chutes and tunnels, Jackson’s Bight, at the island’s northwest end, is a strong choice, while, closer to Grand Cayman, sunken American warship the USS Kittiwake is a must. Handily, it sits off Seven Mile Beach, meaning there’s scope for post-dive mango, lime and scotch bonnet margaritas at sundown at Tillies, a beachside hotspot at the elegant Palm Heights hotel.

visitcaymanislands.com; tillies.ky

THE AZORES

Jet-black boulders, volcanic arches and submarine mounts against a shock of ultramarine ocean, the underwater world in the Azores is sheer ethereal drama. This nine-island archipelago, scattered in the Atlantic Ocean 1,500km off the coast of Portugal, has impressive seascapes and a rich marine ecosystem, plus its relative isolation means that dive sites are pretty pristine. From São Miguel, visit islet Vila Franca to swim along channels and canyons created by ancient lava flow, navigate arches (the scope for silhouette photography is great) spotting dusky groupers, octopus and grey triggerfish en route.

Another Azorean highlight is the Dori wreck, an 130m-long Liberty Ship – and participant in Operation Overlord during Normandy’s D-Day landings – which sank in 1964 and now sits 20m deep in the blue.

Well-preserved, and reclaimed as an artificial reef, now it’s home to moray eels, shoals of jackfish swirling through its boiler room, Moroccan white sea bream drifting past the rudder and yellowmouth barracuda hanging out by the propellor. Plus, during the summer months, venture further offshore to the Ilhéus das Formigas and Dollabarat Reef where, if you’re lucky, potential encounters with mantas and mobulas await.

visitazores.com

THE FLORIDA KEYS

At around 125 miles long, the Florida Keys Reef tract is the world’s third-largest coral barrier reef and one of its most impressive. Ticking all the boxes for dive-site diversity, expect shallow and deep reefs, wrecks and drift dive opportunities, not to mention shimmering, warm azure waters year-round.

At John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, located in Key Largo, bookmark Christ of the Abyss for a dive that feels akin to visiting an underwater art gallery. An imposing 3m bronze statue of Jesus, cast by Guido Galletti, sits nearly 8m deep, attended by spotted eagle rays and southern stingrays.

Just east of Molasses Reef – affectionately nicknamed Mo – is a spur and groove coral marvel, with staghorn, sponges and fire corals on show and residents ranging from nurse sharks and loggerhead turtles to clouds of goat and spadefish and green moray eels.

For arches and caves, make for French Reef – around seven miles southeast of Key Largo – for its amazing limestone topography, swim-throughs and neon clouds of tropical fish. Manta rays and blacktip reef sharks occasionally make an appearance too.

fla-keys.com

THE BAHAMAS

Easily reached from mainland Florida with the J Craft Torpedo, the always-sunny Bahamian archipelago might be famed for its go-slow attitude and cotton wool-soft sands but the vivid aqua waters of the Atlantic Ocean – in which these 3,000 islands, isles and cays rest – are a dream for adrenaline-hungry divers.

Penchant for sharks? Tiger Beach’s sand flats – about an hour off Grand Bahama’s West End –attract tiger sharks from October to January as well as lemon and blacktip sharks.

Between December and March, Bimini Island’s waters come alive with great hammerheads; seeing them weave through the blue is mind-blowing. Andros attracts experienced divers due to its striking blue holes, which naturally formed underwater sinkholes, while tidal currents at Eleuthera –known for its rose-pink sands – put drift dives on the cards.

Not for the faint-hearted, at Current Cut, a narrow channel connecting the Exuma Sound with the Atlantic, currents can reach up to 10 knots, with sharks and rays often accompanying divers.

Alternatively, for a spot of shipwreck-spotting, head to the 1.4-mile-long Devil’s Backbone: this jagged, shallow reef running along the Eleuthera north coast has the Bahamas’ largest selection of natural wrecks to explore.

When you’re done, climb back on board your Torpedo and discover the rest that this great sailing destination has to offer.

bahamas.com

Ianthe Butt is an award-winning travel journalist who has contributed to Condé Nast Traveller, The Independent Travel, The Times and National Geographic Traveller.