Journal #12

The world’s great boating itineraries: The Bahamas

If the Bahamas didn’t already exist, who would have the chutzpah to dream it into existence? Astonishing sand beaches. Crystal clear waters. Friday night fish fries. Rum cocktails. And an island chain that looks like it was designed to be explored from the deck of a Torpedo.

Words by: David Annand

The Bahamas, as everyone knows, is one of the world’s great sailing destinations. Its 700 islands and 2,400 cays make for innumerable itineraries, and there is a place for every occasion, from the glamorous bustle of Nassau to the tiniest of castaway cays, where it’s just you, the sand and the sea. But the Bahamas is more than just a scattering of beach bars and palm trees. The islands have deep roots, a lively local culture and a rich maritime history. Most scholars believe the island now known as San Salvador, out on the eastern fringe, was the first land on which Christopher Columbus set foot back in 1492 when he set out to discover the New World.

For Floridians, this white sand paradise could barely be more conveniently located with the islands just two and a half hours across the Florida Straits in a J Craft Torpedo, which can easily navigate heavy sea and wind, so you can be confident of arriving in style and comfort whatever the weather. And with the islands so close to mainland USA, the Bahamas makes for a great weekend break.  

Miami to Grand Bahama Island (110 miles) 
The Bahamas’ fascinating maritime history extends to its northernmost island, Grand Bahama. It was here, in 1656, that the Maravillas, a two-deck Spanish galleon laden with treasures, collided with another ship and sank leading to great loss of life. Since then, millions of items, including huge amounts of gold and silver have been recovered, some as recently as 2020, earning it the name: “the richest shipwreck in the world”. Today, Grand Bahama Island is a lovely, laid-back sort of place with a little bit everything: Lucayan National Park has mangrove trails that lead to the pristine Gold Rock Beach (where some of the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise was shot), and Count Basie Square in Port Lucaya is the place to head to on a Friday night to hear live Bahamian music.

Grand Bahama Island to Great Harbour Cay (72 miles)
One of the beauties of the J Craft is its ability to duck in and out of tiny bays so you can really explore some of the Bahamas' many uninhabited cays. One of the great places to do this is The Berry Islands, a cluster of cays that lie right next to the Tongue of the Ocean, a deep-water trench that draws in all manner of marine life, making it one of the Caribbean’s best spots for game fishing. Do battle with mighty billfish (massive marlins stalk the waters here), or head to the archipelago’s saltwater flats on the hunt for the elusive bonefish. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, treat yourself to a conch salad with a spectacular view at Coolie Mae’s Sunset Restaurant on Great Harbour Cay. 

Great Harbour Cay to Nassau (55 miles)
In the 1700s, the Bahamas was a hotbed of piracy thanks to the region’s shallow waters, which weren’t suitable for large man-of-war ships but were perfect for the fast, shallow vessels favoured by buccaneers. In 1706, Blackbeard’s mentor, Benjamin Hornigold declared Nassau an autonomous “Republic of Pirates”, which survived for 12 years until the island was retaken by the Royal Navy in 1718. These days, Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas, is an altogether more law-abiding location, but there is still a hint of mischief to the place with its free-flowing rum cocktails and beachside bars. The place to wrap up your trip is the Island House hotel, just outside of Nassau proper: it’s got a Bamford spa and there are three excellent onsite restaurants including Mogano by Giorgio Locatelli, which serves the Bahamas’ best Italian food.

Optional add on: Nassau to Norman’s Cay (45 miles)
For some of the Bahamas’ best underwater action, head to Norman’s Cay and its excellent marina. Divers will love Cracked Coral Head, where the coral formation rises more than 40 feet from the seabed and the waters are full of hammerhead sharks, angelfish, lionfish and sergeant major fish. For a different diving experience, head over to Staniel Cay. There, not far from the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, there’s a wreck of a plane once used by the Medellin Cartel, which sits in shallow waters making it perfect for snorkellers, and a fitting reminder that some aspects of the Bahamas’ illegal past still live on.

From Norman’s Cay it’s a short hop down to Big Major Cay in the Exumas, home to the Bahamas’ famous swimming pigs. Local legend has it that the pigs swam from a shipwreck and made the island home. And who can blame them? After a weekend of sailing in the Bahamas, experiencing its expansiveness and pristine beauty, you’ll probably want to make it home, too. And even if your visit is only a fleeting one, on a J Craft Torpedo you can return to the sunkissed archipelago at your leisure, uncovering more of the country’s rich history and hidden gems. Perhaps retracing the steps of infamous female pirate (one of only a handful in recorded history), Anne Bonny, who plundered on the high seas in Nassau back in the 18th century. But, alas, perhaps that’s a story for another time...

David Annand is a travel writer and author